Galapagos: San Cristobal

Imagine in 1835, some science-oriented fella showing up to an archipelago 600 miles off the Ecuadorian coast, perhaps by chance (?), to discover one of the finest displays of the beauty of evolution. A place that inspired the beginnings of genetic medicine and science...I mean, how could I not go there eventually. NERDFEST!

Day 1: Quito to San Cristobal

All of the daytime flights go through Guayaquil, so be ready for a bit of a haul. Also, bring snacks, because the flights really don't have them. We arrived for late lunch, in any case and checked in to a lovely place on the water called Hotel Miconia. This hotel was the best of all worlds, small pool, attached restaurant, and a little nook with both our room and the kids room. Everything in the town is close by and there is a lovely boardwalk so you can see the seals and other wildlife at sunrise when you need a little peace (and when traveling with kids, we could use a little peace).

After checkin, we ventured out for a snorkeling afternoon. I have been kicking myself that I did not bring the waterproof gopro because the sea life was incredible. One would think I was a travel novice by this mistake, but when you are packing for 4 people, I am going to give myself a pass. The great thing about this snorkeling adventure was it is a local and tourist location, sea turtles, rays, and sea lions everywhere, and surf was easy for the kids to tolerate. Also, I may have gotten felt up and kissed by sea lions at the end of the day. They literally get so close you could give them a hug for being so dang cute. At a distance, though...they are kind of stinky in a really special way.

Dinner was on the waterfront with all the lions 'arfing' around us. Quite cool over all. Enjoy the pics!

Day 2: Darwin Museum, Hiking, and Snorkeling from a Boat!

I started off my morning with a nice quiet walk, which, when traveling with kids, is really all you want...a few minutes of nothing but sea lions barking at you. The waterfront in Cristobal is fabulous. Lots of quaint B&Bs and guest houses, crabs making domes of sand in the walk ways, sail boats here and there, and cheap coffee at every shop.

After breakfast we went for a hike to a scenic lookout via the Darwin Museum. This historical account of the discovery and development of science and conservation of the islands was very enlightening, as was the reeducation about volcanic island formation. If you loved biology and geology, this is your sandbox.

We then took a nice hike to the highlands to get lovely views of the cove around the town and see some interesting birds. After lunch, another hike ensued, this time through the lowlands (which are quite hot midday) to watch boobies and frigatebirds galore. The male frigates have this weird inflatable goiter they inflate that looks really uncomfortable, but it is similar to the wagging of testes and designed to attract the lady birds. The boobies like to perch on rocks covered in their own doodoo, but also nest in pretty much plain view.

The boat met us at the end to take us to another snorkeling spot, where A: I lost my very expensive Maui Jims, but B: there were octopuses and rays galore.

After such a busy day, we just chilled for dinner at the hotel, which has a surprisingly diverse menu including some really tasty pizzas of all things. I opted for a grilled lobster, however, because, of course I did.

Day 3: The dreaded boat ride to Santa Cruz

I am not going to delve into the ride much, mainly due to PTSD of large swells and diesel fumes accompanied by children upchucking. You get the picture.

We stopped at Floriana for lunch and a snorkel on the way as well. Also, after the boat ride, it is hard to appreciate what a cute little village this was, but our lunch spot was great. The snorkeling was more geared to seasoned, non-children swimmers, but the black sand beach was really interesting...and also will literally sear the skin off your feet by noon :) I may have gotten a bit of sun stroke that afternoon, however, which is really not pleasant. I do not recommend it. AT ALL.

On arrival to Santa Cruz, we checked in and chilled for a bit. Our dinner was at a fabulous place in town with an upper deck and traditional Galapaganos food. Patacones (mashed plantains made into little bowls) were the highlight! They fill these little treats with all sorts of ceviches...a treat I am bound to attempt to make someday. Also, the Santa Cruz microbrews are pretty tasty if I do say so myself. And the traditional spicy seafood stew.

Ok, I am hungry now so I need to take a break.