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Foot Tracks on Sand

Capri adventure days 3&4!

we actually spent the day in Sorrento, traveling via ferry. This is the opposite of what most travelers do of course, where Capri is the day trip.

The day was hot, like melt your face off hot. Like, you want a cappuccino but it might be the end of you if you consume hot things. Sorrento is known for not only its charm, but the shopping and self proclaimed best limoncello in the world. We did not have a ton of time to spare here, but began doing a little passeggiata (roaming around and looking for interesting gastronomic fare, preferably with friends). The streets are narrow until you get to the super fancy shopping street. We made our way to the piazza tasso for strong coffee and people watching on our way to the limoncello and olive oil tasting locations.

I GIardini de cataldo is a local producer of anything that you can squeeze hard enough and then make it alcoholic. They are very free with the tastings and other than the walnut liquor (to each her own, but blech), everything was fantastic. Next we ventured to an olive oil tasting at the truffle bar, but perhaps the order would have been better reversed. It was still lovely to sample different strengths of oil as well as some of the local infused oils. And, of course, because it is imperative, i bought more truffle honey as it is the primary ingredient in 1/2 the salads I make.

Lunch was at a tiny family owned spot called Storico (italian for history) where we shared gnocchi sorrentino and limoncello spritz. we managed to get back on the last departing ferry to capri very full and will a heavy bag of gastronomic wonders.


Day 4 we took another ferry: to priano/positano

The Sentiero degli dei is considered one of the top 10 most beautiful hikes in the world. Having been on others on this list, we had no choice whatsoever but to do this hike. Starting in the little town of Priano is the place of choice. The taxi drivers will literally try to charge you 100 euros for the short ride to the trail head, however, so keep asking different drivers until you get to the top. Across the street from sentiero trail head (an alleyway), there is a lovely sandwich and snack shop that you can pack up for the journey.

We went from this location to Positano, and yes, we did the 1800 stairs down the side of the mountain, passed the frozen lemonade oasis, into the absolutely stunning city of positano. My one regret on this trip was that we did not have a ton of time in Positano so it is way up on my long lists of need to return. Preferably in the off season late fall so you can get a better sense of the amazing beauty rather than fighting the stream of tourists.

To be clear, that is my theory on most travel to high demand locations. Unless you have a zillion dollars and can afford to pay people to keep everyone else away, many beautiful places lose luster when you are fighting in ticket lines and waiting in queues.


Ok back to the hike. I won't attempt to describe the beauty of the hike, as words do not do it justice. Do not wear shoes without support, pack a lot of water, and trek the mileage across the cliff edges staring at one of the bluest on blue scenery on earth. Going from Priano to Positano allows for minimal uphill and the terrain can be a little tough on the feet at times. But the views. *chefs kiss*

Oh, and watch out for the mountain goats. They seem pretty friendly and one walked with us for a bit, but i cannot vouch for them. We've heard the Naples mob may have them under contract as well as the trash companies.


In Positano, we changed in a hotel bathroom into nice clothes for a late lunch at the fancy waterfront destination, da Vincenzo. the simplicity of beautiful food in a fancy location after a long hot day of hiking was a bit surreal, to be honest. I need to go back because i think the first glass of wine and dehydration made me forget what we ordered but i recall it was amazing. Pictured below is grilled octopus with lemon dressing and an ahi tartar on puréed edamame and avocado.

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Upon return from the ferry, we had a relaxing evening at the port because the idea of more stairs was really not optimal. You 20s something people, really just keep climbing but I need to set boundaries.


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