Capetown Adventures

Cape Town, South Africa 2024 for spring break

 We were supposed to do this trip in a 2022 but covid regulations and restrictions in Botswana prevented the travel. So, Safari 2024 it is.

The kids, now 12 and soon to be 14, are probably at the point where we could hope to get another one or two years of them even wanting to associate with us, so off we went to South Africa for another jaunt of culture, amazing food, scenery, hikes, and wild animals

I did not document our last South Africa trip because that was pre-blog as an era. Originally, in 2016, we went to ZA on a safari that I won through a preserve called Zulu Nyala and then to Cape Town for an IUGA conference. I will not redocument this in part because of the PTSD from the plane ride arriving, in which a gentleman from Pretoria tried to bleed out on me and die on a 16 hour flight, prompting a Delta investigation which has now led to much better EMKs on their international flights. You’re welcome. The continued PTSD from the event was worth it, however, not just because of the improved EMKs and safety protocols wtih crew, but also it led to my husband and I flying Delta One later that year to Myanmar prior to military takeover and mass genocide of the Rohinga population near Bangladesh. That blog entry will be done in time, however, tourists are not permitted in most of the country at this point after the unlawful incarceration of Aun Sang Suu Ki and military coup which has rendered the country in a standstill. So, I guess I have time for Myanmar posts, and likely what I have to say won't be relevant if the country opens again.

A word about South Africa and the injustices of the aftermath of a social and racial system that was so oppressive towards native Africans that it still permeates the underlying mood of the culture. It was still not that long ago,

 it shows with interracial relations in a lot of places. Since the abolition of apartheid, the white population has declined from 24% to 9% in 30 odd years. Mandela is worshipped for the push to level the playing ground and giving Africa back to Africans, developing the African National Conference. His accolades are much deserved. However, in the past decade, as power and money do, the ANC has fallen into a spiral of corruption leading to its ousting in the last major election. Election is in May this year and the signs and number of parties vying for power is mind boggling with our stupid 2 party system. But, the wounds from past apartheid are just under the surface, and classism is obvious in some regions more than others. Additionally, in spite intentions to increase socioeconomic status in many of the poorer areas, unemployment is still near 40% and opportunity extraordinarily sparse in many areas. There are many efforts to improve the socioeconomic disparity, but it just isn't there yet.

The national currency is the rand, 1 rand being about a nickel. The exchange rate is pretty stable, although major touristy ATMS do price gouge a tiny bit. In comparison to other countries we have been in, Argentina and Myanmar in particular, it is minute. Transportation is pretty easy with air and hired vehicles. Major cities caution walking at night as with everywhere, but the warnings are a bit more intense, especially in JoBurg. I never felt unsafe, to be clear. When it is just my husband and I traveling, we probably would have heeded the advice slightly less, but since kids change the equation, we abided by the chill at home at night rule in Cape Town.

Customs are similar to Europe in the big cities with the exception that tipping is expected and every time you park, move, pee. In most places, there will be attendants walking around making sure your car is safe. You are expected to give them a few Rand and this also goes for rest rooms and any other minor assist. Late in the trip I was out of coins and gave the housekeeper and bathroom attendants 200 Rand a piece and one started crying, gave me a hug and said how much that would help with shoes for her kids. So truly, don’t be a shithead and carry small bills, occasionally give a housekeeper a big tip…unemployment is rampant in some areas, and many service workers are paid horribly. If you can afford to go to safari, you can afford to make someone’s entire day with something you would just buy a beer with at home.

Who not to tip? Child labor. This is hard because the kids are so cute and will do dances etc. But, they are being kept out of public education to earn a Rand or two for the family, and it is not good to encourage that. While the public schooling in South Africa is far from fabulous, it can help reverse decades of lack of education and initiative, which, in the long run, is far more important. So, for the kids I brought stickers and chapsticks as gifts. A BIG hit. In retrospect, I really should have thought about buying a bag of deflated soccer balls and donating them, as all of the children are avid soccer fans and the tools of the trade there aren't always top notch.

Climate: you are either near the Tropic of Capricorn or the equator depending on location. Spring in the US and Europe is a great time to avoid painful heat. Two weeks before we went temps were exceeding 40 degrees Celsius but we had mostly good non sweltering weather. Layer if you’re going to be out all day.

Chargers: in todays electric obsessed society, chargers are a must. I am going to link the one we bought and also the solar power bank in case you’re at a place without electricity for a while. Additionally, bring bar body wash and shampoo if camping as well as completely biodegradable laundry sheets for freshening up clothes. You can get a camping clothesline at REI or any outdoor store for cheap to hold things. Bring your own water bottle and minimize plastic and also your own sealing coffee mug for drives. I got a hydro flask and a Brümate for the trip. Pack lightly if camping…you don’t want a ton of gear to schlep around. Minimize plastic and waste, be a good human, that's the name of the game.

Pre-safari needs:

solar Power bank (not the best but it will do)

Chargers

Weird 3 prong SA charger

Monster towels

biodegradable soap

biodegradable detergent

Camp pillow

camping clothes line

Camera goods https://doddcamera.com/lens rental (anyone but lensrental.com)

Ok, enough blabber:

Arrival in Cape Town was uneventful. Really, I was so tired after working my ass off for 6 weeks and quitting that I watched two movies and read and slept the whole way there. On arrival, we went to our Airbnb, link at the end. It was lovely as a location, and the place had everything needed and is located over Gold African restaurant. Only complaint here is that the outside noise in the middle of the night was quite distracting.

But hey, they had every issue of Nat Geo from 1964 on…I dig these people. The first evening I had way too much fun drinking my wine and sifting through dozens of old issues, seeing some of the first Philips mammogram ads, etc. If anyone is interested in staying here, the host was great, and has in unit laundry to stave off the dirty bag a little while longer. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/24791230?source_impression_id=p3_1713372332_nzGNT8pQ2O3OAtCX

First day we were tired and wandered to the Victoria Waterfront for dinner. The Harbour house is a special occasion place for sure, but since it was actually technically our 6th anniversary, why the heck not? The kids have found a recent obsession with steak…of any kind…I blame my husband because like skiing, it is a super slippery slope of hemorrhaging cash, especially when the pickiness of their usual daily life gets compounded with an obsession with one specific item.

Day 1 full day with a bit of a late start. We decided nothing cures jet lag more than a good solid hike up a large mountain. Table Mountain is an iconic symbol of Cape Town…every postcard has it. It is visible from the majority of the immediate cape. It is challenging and has a lot of great trails up. The only thing I miscalculated was my recent foot surgery, which I figured was over and done, but a little humility at near defeat is never bad, right? That plate certainly let itself be known on the craggier areas.

The Gorge Hike hurt y’all. Like poofy foot that acknowledged every step. But we got there and it overall was a lovely day. The view from table mountain is surreal. It doesn’t seem to be a facet of reality as the fogs blow in and out. Plus, you can have a glass of wine and watch the mist roll by. Win Win. Exploring the rock formations and gardens along the plateau could be a full day of exploration as well, and in the off season there's an eerie calmness about it. Advice for the hiking: layer accordingly for wind, fog, etc to ensure you maintain body temperature. Water cannot be understated, especially if you just got off a plane for 24 hours. The hike isn't so long that extensive snacks are needed, but you do you.

If you are not up for a trek, the funicular is an easy fix, but the lines can be long so advance tickets advised. https://www.tablemountain.net/plan-your-visit/buy-tickets

On the way down we arranged to meet with an old friend, Andrea, from medical school, who’s been there the better part of decade. She suggested a fish and chips jaunt to Kalk Bay, a local favorite. We went to Kalky’s for fish and chips and a lovely view as well as seal sightings. It is a cash only establishment, but you get massive amounts of fish and cold beer for shockingly low prices.

Full Day 2

We started later again, jet lag is a jerk. Starting the morning at a brand new on that day caffe call the Pool Caffe, we had some fresh juices and toasties, prior to the excursion to the cape of good hope.

This was our second time to the southernmost point of the map. We paid homage to the African Penguins in Simon’s town on the way, which is kind of a must. For $4, you can watch the only African penguin colony flit about the coast line and make stinky smells as they waddle. Maybe that is not a selling point, but they are fun to watch. But they do REALLY stink. At the end of the free 'walk' there is a beach you can pay to roam on, however this is not where the colony is.

Cape of Good Hope is a photo op, of course, but there's a gorgeous variety of savannah with crashing waves and desert flora. Although I failed to get a picture of the prancing ostrich in our path, I can attest that ostrich, Baboon! Sign sightings without sign of baboons, it is lovely. We had a mid day snack at Two Oceans near the Funicular with beautiful scenery.

That evening we had reservations at Gold. If you’ve never been to Cape Town, make it a point. It is dedicated to a wide range of pan-African cuisine and cultural experiences. We did a drum lesson with singing then a 14 course African gastronomy tour, which surprisingly, the kids didn’t hate. I loved every dish to be honest. I did not take a lot of pictures because it cannot do it justice. So, book the place and go. Ostrich salad, corn and spinach fritters, peri peri chicken and more await in large quantities.

Full Day 3:

Robbens island being completely booked was disappointing. We figured that because we had pulled the kids out of school an extra week that the experience combined with a brief book about Mandela would be important. Instead, we ventured to the aquarium, which isn’t super time consuming and very well done. They did a great job with the interactive portions of the exhibits and it also very easy to navigate. You will need about 2 hours to properly view the animals.

We did lunch at Time Out which is a multinational cafeteria style establishment. They essentially have any type of food you can imagine and 3 bars, a wine joint, and an oyster bar. I opted for Malay Chili Fish and a glass of Pinotage as well as 6 oysters because it wouldn’t be right not to. Right? Never let an oyster get passed by!

We had enough time to do a little shopping at the local craft market which was lovely. It is in the same market complex as the food and has tons of local handmade items that are all benefiting local trade.

Flying to Johannesburg following this morning of fun was a bit of a bummer because I wanted more time. But, I have another list of things to return for. One item, for the second time, was closed when it said open online: the Cape Town Medical Museum. I really wanted to see the traditional medicine exhibits there and some of the more seedy history, but after a no-go in 2016 and also this year, I guess it is not in the cards for me.

On arrival to Joburg, we didn’t get a whole lot done outside of wine and a snack due to time. The Intrepid tour started at the Red Radisson in Rosebank which is a nicely equipped new hotel amongst a fairly safe mecca of hotels and shopping.